Denmark’s summer experience is unparalleled. With the sun setting as late as 10 p.m., the long daylight hours invite cyclists to explore, wine enthusiasts to sip by the waterfront, and all to bask in the country’s relaxed charm and constant joy.
Exploring the untamed Jutland region on a recent journey, I discovered that the summer vibe here is amplified. Once a string of humble fishing villages in Denmark’s northwest, it has emerged as an unexpected surfing mecca, attracting more than just epic waves to its shores.
After a week of adventure, I encountered the last remaining wild flat oysters in Europe, innovative tasting menus, cozy boutique hotels exuding hygge, and a multitude of reasons to delve into this pristine natural haven and lose oneself for a while.
Days 1-2: Klitmøller and Hanstholm
Aalborg, Denmark’s fourth-largest city, is a convenient jumping-off point to the northern coast. You might choose to immerse yourself in the city’s art galleries and waterfront before embarking on the journey further north. However, our team couldn’t resist the allure of the pounding surf and drove straight to the coast in just under 90 minutes.
Denmark might not be the first place that comes to mind for surfing, but “Cold Hawaii,” as this region is nicknamed, thanks to its high latitude, attracts impressive swells. Word of the area’s challenging weather conditions and excellent surf has spread, leading Red Bull to host a King of the Air qualifier event near Klitmøller. The region is also preparing to host the Windsurfing World Championships.
Arriving on a foggy day, even through the mist, I spotted surfers beyond the break, the wind whipping the coastline. Unlike warmer surf spots with beach bars, Klitmøller offers cozy coffee shops and sauna clubs. I chose to savor the tranquility with a coffee, but one could easily don a wetsuit from the Cold Hawaii Surf Camp and dive in.
Cool summer days are common here, considering Jutland shares the same latitude as Alaska. Therefore, a long day in the water should be capped with a heartwarming meal. Hanstholm Madbar, a short drive away, offers just that, with its dining room boasting large windows overlooking vast grasslands. The serene ambiance is perfect for enjoying steaming pots of mussels and dishes that change with the seasons.
These coastal towns are small, some with just over a thousand residents. Yet, the promise of prime surfing and a chance to unplug has drawn visitors and new hotels. The Svinkløv Badehotel, owned by a renowned chef, promises exquisite dining and a cottage-like feel, while Vipp, a Danish design brand, has opened a guesthouse for a immersive natural experience.
After a long day of travel, I opted for a lie-in, while others attended the largest seafood auction in Hanstholm, where North Sea catches are sold in a vibrant atmosphere. Day two should be dedicated to the waves, but don’t miss a visit to the historic Hanstholm Lighthouse, which hosts the Østlængen pop-up, serving pizza, traditional Danish fare, and the local favorite, birkes.
Day 3: Thy and Agger
Day three began with a drive to Thy National Park, a 94-square-mile protected area teeming with sand dunes and wetlands full of birds. Lodbjerg Lighthouse offers stunning coastal views, and the country’s largest wildlife reserve is home to red deer and rare bird species.
On the outskirts of the park, Thy Whisky, run by eighth-generation farmers, produces excellent single malts. The owners led me through fields of barley, rye, and wheat, and the distillery process, before offering tastings of four distinct whiskies.
Continuing down the coast, I arrived at Restaurant Tri in a tiny town of fewer than 200 souls. Chef Nicolas Min Jørgensen’s passion for regional flavors is evident in his sourcing and dishes. The restaurant has been awarded both a Michelin star and a green star for sustainability.
After a memorable dinner, Vorupør Badehotel offers a peaceful stay with its seven rooms located right on the ocean, ensuring stunning views from its oversized windows.
Days 4-5: Mors and Limfjorden
Wild oysters are a regional highlight, so my final day involved donning waders and exploring the fjord between Mors Island and the mainland.
The Danish Shellfish Center, dedicated to preserving Europe’s last remaining wild oysters, offers a two-hour experience. After learning about the flat oysters, I geared up and set out to harvest my own. Despite a modest catch, the team provided fresh oysters to enjoy with sparkling wine, a reward for the day’s efforts.
For more seafood delights, Limfjordens Hus in Glyngøre Havn is a must. If you’re still hungry for oysters, Danish Oyster Bar serves a local beer brewed with oyster shells, offering a briny taste to savor while gazing at the water.
Our last night was spent at Tambohus Inn, a simple yet cozy lodging on the fjord. Before departing, we embraced the local tradition of using the sauna and taking a plunge into the fjord, the perfect conclusion to an epic adventure.
